The kaupapa had a central theme of “Hawaiki hou”, a sort of aspirational future place, asking, “What do we want Aotearoa to look like, and how can we get there socially, politically, environmentally, ...

and the roll call of tūpuna who signed Te Tiriti o Waitangi in 1840, waka ceremonies will begin on Te Tii Beach at 9am, where thousands will gather to watch the kaihoe waka in action. Until then ...

Away from the tense scenes on the paepae, under a closely guarded canvas tent, te iwi Māori do the real work of Waitangi: talking. We were invited inside to listen.